Monday, December 19, 2005

Civil War in San Diego

Well - Civil War among climbers anyway.

For some time now, there have been rumors about Art Messier, self-proclaimed defender of climbing routes and ethics of San Diego, chopping bolts down at Mission Gorge (local sport climbing scene). Then after El Cajon Mtn (ECM) was open to the climbing public, more rumors surfaced.

Then, I got a letter from an angry climber to the climbing population about Art Messier. I read it and decided not to forward it till I heard Art's side of the story. I looked for articles online and asked people who knew him personally. I couldn't find anything or anyone that could defend his views definitively so I just waited.

And now, Art has pulled the plug on the San Diego Climber's Coalition website. So judging from the following actions:
  • Renaming bolted routes to his liking in guide books
  • possible ransacking of other people's gear
  • suspicious patrolling of San Diego climbing areas (most likely to see bolting / climbing activity)
  • pulling the San Diego Climber's Coalition website from the 'net
  • supposed threats to shut down ECM, a climbing area open to the public, if he does not have full supervision of any future bolted lines at ECM
  • Chopping of other people's bolted routes for no explanation

I've decided to throw my lot in with the Anti-Art crowd.

Until Mr Messier can give a logical explanation to all of this (other than the apparent desire to have ownership and control of all new and existing climbing routes in San Diego), I'm planning on not holding back my tongue during conversations about his activities. Up to this point, I've tried to play devil's advocate as best as possible, but it's becoming increasingly difficult.

It's really too bad. 99% of climbers I've met have been open minded, friendly and most of all level headed... for the most part. I'm worried about where the future of San Diego climbing is going to go...

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