Hrm... well this ain't working well...
So this weekend presented an interesting time to compare, contrast and reflect on two climbing strategies that I've played around with in regards to lead climbing.
Strategy 1: Detach the self from expectations of completing the climb with an onsight. Release the feeling of fear, trepidation and doubt and just move across the rock. If you fall, c'est la vie. If you onsight it, c'est la vie.
Strategy 2: Reach deep down within the self and don't fall no matter what. Don't give up an inch, and fight hard for moves, despite your body being tired, nervous etc.
So basically the two strategies can be listed as a passive style versus an aggressive style. Lately I've been having fun climbing "passively" at Jtree and I'm completely free from the fear that usually grips me on climbs. There's no stress, no expectation and it feels like so much fun. Who cares if I fall or not? Who cares if I finish the route or not?
Unfortuantely, the down side to it is that I don't have the motivation to try hard. It either comes easy or it doesn't - if I feel like I'm going to fall, I'll allow it to happen. Which presents a problem when trying things at my limit...
The second strategy is quite the opposite - it's just like the feeling of bouldering where I'm trying to find some way inside of me to break through my limits. My entire consciousness is focused on a single point, whether that point be another hold or another move. But this state of aggressive movement heightens my level of adrenaline and the entire ordeal feels so much like I'm working hard at something, with absolute disregard to whether I'm having fun or not. It feels like it heightens my own ego in the negative sense of the word i.e. "I pushed myself to go do this climb - what did *you* push yourself to do?" kind of feeling. yuck. Then there's the fact that this heightened level of adrenaline and awareness is associated with my involvement in Jon's accident which then elevates my fear factor exponentially...
I need to spend the next few trips experimenting with some happy middle between the two methods that I've found works well for me. Always an adventure...
posted by Obi at 10:41 AM
2 Comments:
Interesting topic, and one I have some experience in (despite not having climbed in a few years, I do remember how it feels). Every climbing day is different. But the best days were when I could combine both approaches. Be loose upon starting the climb, enjoying the moves, and then just before you enter the crux (and I know that you are an experienced enough climber to see it coming), take a deep breath, gather yourself, and focus on the next move or so. Once you've moved through the crux (without having given into it and fallen), take a moment to shake out all that nervous energy that got you through the crux and flow through the rest of the climb.
I think there are a few levels here honestly. First, I think it is good to approach a climb with a curious explorers mindset. I like thinking of it as being aggressively curious, instead of aggressive in the sense of what you wrote before. I think personally, this is one of the reasons I prefer longer climbs. As the climbing is spread out, I find it easier to become absorbed in the climb, and each motion instead of the adrenaline aggressiveness (and yuck feeling associated) that I more often find in bouldering. When I get to a difficult or dangerous section, I try to clear my mind of the yuck thoughts (people around me, "onsight", fear, etc...) and focus as much of this energy as I can on being calm, but determined to make the next move, and then the one after. In fact, I think this (for me anyhow) is the key... I will climb much better when I am calm, reserved, focused and DETERMINED than when I am super aggressive. Does that make sense?
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